Verona

Dear Blog Readers,

There are many of you who visit this blog. Much, much more than I would have ever imagined.
I'm so delighted that I was able to share this fun time with you. It was a trip for my mother and I to get away, spend time together, shop and just live in our favorite place to visit.

My father's side is Italian and my mother's is Irish, but I'm pretty sure that when she is over there she blends right in... (despite the bright blue eyes and blonde hair). She loves it there so much.

She often joked that she couldn't find me in crowds. That might be because I have an olive complexion, I have dark hair and I can produce an Italian accent when I put my mind to it...but allow me to offer a little word of advice when it comes to packing for a trip to Italy and "looking the part".

PACK COMFORTABLE SHOES.

I know to do this- I've had the good fortune of experience, but I don't listen. I'd much rather wear my normal wardrobe and try to look fashionable (and I like heels and cute ballet flats and boots especially). Forget about it... if you are walking all day long- just make sure you have some sort of sporty shoe (not Nikes). I don't care if it's those Prada ballerina sneakers or a pair of havianas (those are fabulous too), just be comfy.

I ruined another pair of boots on this trip because I'm stubborn. My next trip, I will probably pack heeled boots yet again. I reserve the right to ignore my own advice.

/end rant.

Verona was the answer when Padua was not. Our plans were to visit Padua (St. Anthony's home), but some things didn't work out. There's always next time.

Verona was beautiful as I'd imagined, but I was only there for one day. We spent most of our time walking along the Adige River, which proved to be picturesque and joyous.

Ponte Pietra is the more famous bridge (there are many here). When I imagined Verona, I always envisioned this bridge, the river and of course, the bell tower at Sant'Anastasia.

If you are ever in Verona and Romeo and Juliet commercialism is not exactly your thing, then walk through the Piazza delle Erbe and visit Sant'Anastasia church. You will see the "hunchback" attributed to Veronese's father and my personal favorite, a Pisanello fresco which illustrates Saint George saving the princess from the dragon. The church is Gothic in style and well worth a trip.

And for Romeo and Juliet hopefuls (oxymoron?), we did visit Juliet's "home" and her tomb. There was also a building nearby that we stumbled upon that is also mythicized to be Romeo's home. All I know is that it was fun to visit and to stand on the balcony... historical facts and records of Shakespeare in Italy aside, the little girl in me paid the 6 euros and climbed to her balcony.

I also wrote her a note, dammit.

I'll let you know I hear from her...

Without further delay, here are the VeronaPhotos

Thank you all for your lovely phone calls and emails since I have returned. I promise to catch up on all of the chapter updates.

A few FF announcements:

My very dear friends cosmoandmarvar are hosting a Summer One Shot contest called "Summer Lovin'". Contact them for information. It will be so much fun!

I am hosting a readalong for Cosmogirl7481 as well. It will be on June 22 at 9:00 pm EST I believe.

A few recs:
I am continuing to rec "The Cullen Campaign" by belladonna1472. You don't have to be a politico do enjoy the sexy banter. It's decidedly bipartisan... I can assure you that both sides are *working together*. Tell her I sent you.
Also to "Mens Rea: A Guilty Mind" by killerwardsmuse. For all those who appreciate a throughly complex criminal plot. Rachel also seems to have stolen my iPod.. I swear her taste in music is so much like my own. Special Thanks to Raizie for introducing me.
"The Gentleman from Washington State" by MissBettySmith. Senator Cullen teaching LSAT logic? That's all.
"Guardian" by ChampagneAnyone (@AllyinPerth). More legal drama.

I'm in a political/legal mood with my recs. Enjoy.

Some of you have asked if I will blog future trips, or just blog about whatever interests me. I would definitely do another trip on here, but I can't imagine my thoughts being that exciting for an "everyday" sort of thing... I'm flattered even by the response to this, y'all are sweethearts.

All my love,
Brooke

Venice Part 2

If you are ever in Venice, make it a point to go to the Scuola San Rocco. It was something I had always dreamed of doing and I couldn't wait to see the painting cycle in the Great Upper Hall by Tintoretto. It is affectionately referred to as "Tintoretto's Sistine Chapel". Scuole in Venice were a sort of brotherhood, under the patronage of a Saint. The members would tend to various interests: the arts, professional associations and religious practice. The Suola Grande of Saint Roch was the only bortherhood to be spared by the Napoleonic edicts.


Tintoretto's painting cycle (on the ceiling). Pictures were not allowed, but somehow my mother managed to sneak a few... she's pretty kickass. Looking downwards adn around the hall there were also pieces by Bellini, Tiepolo, and Tiziano.


Staircase leading to the Great Upper Hall. The Ground floor was decorate with Tiepolo, Titian and Giorgione (who I just discovered and very much admire).

We also visited the Doge's Palace where I was able to see Casanova's jail cells (there were two). As we all know, he escaped and fled to France only to return to work for the Republic of Venice as a spy once again. What fewer people know is that a priest helped him escape; they built a tunnel for two months when the guards were not around. Casanova and the priest could openly communicate in Latin and the priest dug the hole from his cell (and covered it with a drawing of saints during the daytime). The priest was imprisoned because he fathered three children.


The Domes of St. Mark's Basilica can be see from the overlook of the Palace courtyard.

The Doge's Palace is also home to the third largest archive in the world. Second only to the Vatican and Vienna. The Venetians were very efficient record keepers; they made multiple copies of every significant document to ensure that at least one record would survive the frequent fires.


The Grand Staircase that leads to the "Square Room" in the Doge's Palace.

*photos were not allowed in the interior. this shutterbug was cut short.


A quaint little restaurant, but I wanted y'all to see how tiny the streets are.

I would also recommend a visit to Frari Church to see Antonio Canova's tomb, Titian's "Assumption", Bellini's "Madonna and Child" in the sacristy, Donatello's first work in Venice and the magnificent hand carved choral thrones. The interior of the church was very unique with brick, marble and intricately carved wooden beams. These elements made it distinguishable and sophisticated in my opinion.


We had mass at Santa Maria Salute and this church is fashioned in the Rococo style (much to my delight). Occasionally, I really enjoy Rococo and this church was so beautifully situated in addition to being designed so thoughtfully. One of the priests, (not the one conducting mass), was very, very handsome. *smiles* I felt horrible for thinking that (or maybe I shouldn't?) All I could think about was if I should actually go to confession (it's been a while)... but would I confess this to him? #moraldilemma


Santa Maria Salute


an enchanting garden off of the Grand Canal

Here are some photos of Venice at night. By the way, we just missed Johnny Depp's yacht (that would have been fun). He was filming a movie with Angelina Jolie called "The Tourist"...


Rialto Bridge


Another view from my room.



St. Mark's Square from the rough water. Executions once took place in between those two towers, so it's a local practice to not walk in between them.


A typical nighttime canal view. Near Rialto.


I tried to give background without going on and on as I did in the first post. I preferred to do larger, more inclusive posts this go round.

Here are the remaining photos: VenicePart2

Only one more left, Verona. We visited Padova and much to my demise, the Scrovegni Chapel was temporarily closed. I was really upset, but it's an excuse to make a return visit to Saint Anthony's birthplace. So we went to Verona instead. :)

By the way, I can now read HTML. Who would have though that was possible?

Shoutouts to @belladonna 1472, she is the author of "The Cullen Campaign". If you have not already, read 'The Gentleman From Washington State" by @MissBettySmith and "Mens Rea: A Guilty Mind" by @killarwardsmuse. Each author is so proficient at including political theory and ethics, studies of the American justice system, politico factoids and legal substance in compelling and sexy ways.

And to Miss Icy, I am so, so sorry I have not reviewed, but I promise to do you proud. (hugs)

I am hosting a readalong for @cosmogirl7481 "Retail Therapy" on the 22nd. You'd best log onto Twitter prepared for all sorts of slorific chat.

Oh, quick fun fact: The drink, the Bellini, originated in Venice at Harry's Bar. I already knew this (as you probably did too) but what I didn't realize is that is was certainly named by Giuseppe Cipriani for the Venetian artist, Bellini. The color of the drink reminded him of one of Bellini's paintings.

Divine.

All my love,

Brooke

Venice Part 1

Hello everyone.

Fortunately I have wifi access as we leave today so I can compile these posts to conclude this experience with all of you.

I am going to divide Venice into two posts and two albums (I think). There will also be a post about Verona.

I might be one of the only people who have ever disliked Venice (initially), but allow me to make a few concessions first. Undeniably, the coastal surroundings are very lovely and the grandeur of Venice past still reveals itself today and I think that is really incredible. However, it was the idea of what Venice has evolved into that really sort of, uh... disappointed me. That's putting it fairly mildly.



I felt as if the city has been permeated, not only by threat of water erosion, but also by commercial infusion. The pulse of Venice was characterized by flustering foot travel, cheesy appeals to tourists and gondoliers who said provocative things to American girls. I knew that I was so far from my dear Florence and it made me a little despondent. In my mind, I was playing a somber soundtrack of Radiohead or CSNY.


The scaffold. (dun dun dun)


And of course, these thoughts were intensified as I looked to the Bridge of Sighs only to discover that it's nearly masked by a Mont Blanc advertisement. The boats blared 80's music and modern rap (no joke, "Welcome to Atlanta" was booming through the speakers nearby.) Half of St. Mark's Basilica was covered in scaffolding and the Rialto bridge was laden with protest banners and violated with graffiti I didn't understand.


A colorful shot of gondolas.

But maybe that's just it... I didn't understand. I mean, who am I to criticize this city that is so dearly loved in the world? I needed to give it another chance (that's what I would want anyway). I also decided that I was being my own worst enemy as these landmarks I mentioned are the more crowded hotspots. I soon discovered that San Paolo and Dorsoduro and even Murano were less crowded and organically Venetian. This was relieving to say the least.


Strategizing on the Grand Canal.

WIth all of this said, I must sound incredibly ridiculous- I was in Venice after all and truly I was more than thankful to be there. I was only a little upset and unfamiliar. You can choose for these little things to annoy you or you can look beyond them and peel back the layers of contemporaneity and see this rich, complex, historic city for what is truly is. And I found it to be mystifying and very, very unique.


Gondoliers. They were all singing in chorus..

Venice is most enchanting at nighttime I think. I was intoxicated by the lights sparkling the water, the smell of the wine from the cafes and the orchestra resounding from St. Mark's square.


Cafe Florian called for a few repeat visits. I will link a video where I was standing near to so you can hear the music. I would have recorded sitting there, but that might have been a bit awkward. It's a famous cafe in the square where you can have a proper English teatime or cocktails (I liked the "Tiepolo" Bellini). The desserts are incredible and the staff is very, very kind (as they should be). Yeah, it's overpriced, but when I was sitting there and I heard all my favorite melodies stream from the brilliant orchestra I thought that things couldn't get much better. We sat there for an hour or so at a time, taking in the splendor in the breezy chilly Venetian nights.


Tea Parlor in Cafe Florian. We opted to dine outside each time, but the interior was beautiful.


"Tiepolo"

Here is a link to the video of the music. If you have seen the Pacino film "Scent of a Woman" you will recognize the incredible Spanish tango, "Por Una Cabeza". You might also know it from Schindler's List, albeit a different version. Yes, that's my giggle in the middle of the video... I won't say what I was giggling at.

Link is here

In the pictures you will see the Doge's Palace, the Basilica, Frari Church (where Canva is buried), Scuola San Rocco (home to Tintoretto's "Sistine Chapel"), Sta Maria Salute (we had mass there) and more well known places like Ca'Rezzonico or the Ca' del Oro.

We stayed at the Hotel Londra Palace. It was ideally located and came highly recommended by a friend and we were more than pleased. It's steps away from the Bridge of Sighs and St. Mark's Square and it's across the lagoon from San Giorgio Maggiore (real Venetian beauty to be sure). It is adorned with Tintoretto (many churches are here) and it was designed by Palladio. The church is famous for it's bell tower as it is often included in one's Venetian imagination and is a popular choice for weddings.
I also learned that Tchaikovsky composed the initial three movements to his 4th symphony in one of the lagoon view rooms on our floor (hmmmm...)


foot bridge

I must also say that it's nice to stay on the main island of Venice. After popular locations close around 6:00 pm, most tourists take vaporettos (public taxis) to a nearby island. When the crowds cleared and the city was able to be itself, I succumbed to the incantations of gilded glory and sheer romance that filled the air.


A Room with a View. (wrong city, but a very apt caption if I may say so myself)


For my Southern friends, it seems that Italians like our accent. They call it "sweet and elegant". *swoons* Italians are so charming... As a partial Italian, one can only hope to inherit the charming traits... (brushes off shoulder).

Raina, I don't quite have your Tennessee talk, but hopefully my Georgian Belle delivery will suffice. *rolls eyes*

Thanks to a special someone for the sweet, sweet emails and thanks to my friend for linking me the Robert Pattinson video clip. I hate being one of the millions infatuated with him, but damn he is pretty incredible. When he starts discussing his favorite literature (and inserts nerdy and adorable comments) my mind is inevitably gutter-bound. And he is just so pretty...
(I like clean shaven Rob for the record (a la the Bruce Weber shoot for VF)...grunge... not so much).

PSA: Please keep the people of the Gulf Coast in your thoughts and prayers. It's so saddening for our country to be encountering yet another environmental dilemma and so many people are losing their jobs each day. The poor animals are suffering too, so please try to help out (or pray) for all who are touched by this disaster. Hopefully we will all be stronger from it.

Enough of my rambling, here are some photos of beautiful Venice:


Hotel Londra Palace. My room is the top one with the two lights still on. (oops)


Hermes. More boutique photos are in the album.


The small pier/dock in front of out hotel.

Here are just a few (in a nonsensical order..sorry). The next post will have the more illuminated pictures (Venice at Night) among other things.

The rest of the photos can be found at the photobucket link here: VeniceAlbumOne

For more professional photos (with incredible commentary) check out venicedailyphoto.blogspot.com. It's on my "Favorite Places".

Love,
B

Bargello Museum

This is short and sweet- I forgot to post this earlier... it was sitting in the "drafts" and I never published the post.

I was so incredibly excited to visit the Bargello Museum. It is often overlooked as there are no paintings; it is a sculpture museum. I was drawn to it by Michelangelo and Donatello, but one should visit the Bargello simply for it's structure and aesthetic qualities. It used to be a prison (executions would take place in the courtyard), but today it provides yet another lovely opportunity to consider medieval architecture.

The Bargello is home to Michelangelo sculptures and perhaps it most famously exhibits Donatello's fascinating bronze "David". Many people think this David is rather feminine, but one must always consider what the sculptor was trying to achieve in terms of narrative and more specifically, what emotions he was trying to evoke.

Here are a few pictures of the museum:









It is difficult to get proper pictures as they do not allow for many. The museum was about a 1 minute walk from our hotel, The Hotel Bernini Palace. We absolutely loved the hotel for it's location, the spacious suite and the very kind staff (and Lorenzo).

I am catching up on the blog photos on the terrace of out hotel in Venice. I'm getting some sun and sharing this trip with all of you. It's coming to an end, so I am trying get all of this on here before I leave!

Here are the rest of the photos (there really are not that many): BargelloPhotos
You are all so sweet. Ouiser, I think we must have been separated at birth or something.

Baci from Italia,
Brooke

Saying Goodbye to Florence

Here I will post an album of the remaining photos from Florence. There are a few other churches and things that I did not post exclusively on, but I did take pictures of them. Our trip was centered around our time in Florence and we took each day with leisure and appreciation and there was no rush to see sites or queue for tickets.


yet another picture of the Ponte Vecchio at night.


Fruit Stand.

This trip to Florence was incredible. I was able to spend time with my mother and take the proper amount of time to really enjoy my favorite city in Italy. Florence feels like a sort of adoptive home each time I travel here. It's comfortable, enveloping and easy going. I find that the people are so generous and warm, that life is celebrated and loved ones are cherished here. Florence is a place where I feel absolutely safe and I understand it as if it was somewhere I have lived. And though that is not true in the conventional sense, I do feel like I truly have lived here and at the very least I have learned how to live. A city of faith, of art, of rich culture and tradition, of pride and family could only bring joy, peace and knowledge to one's life.



newspapers


Carousel in the Piazza della Repubblica.


On an early morning run. There is no one near the Duomo at 7:00 AM. It's lovely.

As always I will share some photos on here with captions, but I encourage you to click on the photobucket link and see the others. It's just so beautiful. There are also photos of Santa Croce, San Marco, Santissima Annunziata and of course, the river Arno.


A running start in Santa Maria Novella. My mom wanted to join the race...


Lily of Florence on the facade of Orsanmichele.


Ristorante in the Piazza della Signoria.


There will be a few videos, but they will not upload so I will have to link them. One of which has the slides in the Piazza Signoria. If you go to the end you can hear the applause at the end of the show. A British musician was playing piano during the presentation. I like the final slide that says "Grazie" because everyone cheered in thanks!

Here is a link to the anniversary slideshow video:
SignoriaSides


Police on the Ponte Vecchio doing absolutely nothing.


The "secret" Medici corridor. Here, the photo shows it's connection from the Palazzo Vecchio to the Uffizi Gallery, which were offices at the time. "Uffizi" means offices.


This is actually in Pisa, but these men were members of a football team. There were about 20 of them walking around where I was. I stupidly left my watch in the grass near the tower and I had to turn around and run back to get it as I realized this 40 minutes after the fact. A few of them ran part of the way back with me (much to my delight). It was humorous and they spoke some English so we chatted after I retrieved my watch (thankfully it was still there).

This is a long one and I did it very quickly. Enjoy the photos!

Here is the link to the remaining photos.

Kisses,
Brooke

I fell in love with San Gimignano.

San Gimignano rises above the Elsa Valley in Tuscany as a grand medieval town. There are many medieval towers which are still standing proudly as they compose San Gimignano's skyline and each of them famously help the city earn the title "Tuscany's Manhattan".


San Gimignano Towers

Now I don't need to explain that the city is the absolute farthest thing from Manhattan. The streets of San Gimignano wind and twist in ascension. The streets are lined with trattorias, ceramic shops, butchers, pasticcerias, and even a gelato shop that has been awarded "#1 in Tuscany". San Gimignano is incredibly famous for the Vernaccia wine that I told you about on the farm (as I am sure you all have heard before anyway). The farm was about 20 minutes from San Gimignano. The city also produces saffron and in the Middle Ages it was a vital component to the economy. San Gimignano is a neighbor to Florence, so it makes sense that Dante served as an Ambassador of the Guelph League here.



A little restaurant in the heart of the city.


Sunlight peeping through.

I most beautiful part of San Gimignano is the gardens where you can overlook the Tuscan countryside and acquire a more intimate view of the towers. Gardens in Italy do have flowers, but they are usually dominated by olive trees and citrus trees and fountains. The Boboli Gardens in Florence for example, are a great example of a Renaissance garden- with more shrubs and fountains and less flowers. Versailles' gardens were inspired by them.


A colorful advertisement for an exhibition I think. I just liked the picture.

I really loved how small and lively the city was and yet it was still secluded and natural. It reminded me of Orvieto in this way. Perhaps San Gimignano is to Florence what Orvieto is to Rome. Like our trip to Orvieto, we purchased ceramic pottery- my mother collects it, but I always get to help choose her pieces (she needs me). It's all very ornate and handmade.


Our favorites pieces. :)


I was walking past this house and I see that a Puglisi lives here. hehe


I'm pretty sure I could ramble for hours about this place. I loved it very much.
Hope you enjoy the rest of the photos.

SanGimignanoPhotos

I try to take pictures of everyday things and pictures of the shops and restaurants because you all have told me you like to see that. :)

Brooke

Siena

Greetings my lovely friends. I have been complete fail at updating and I am a little behind. I will try to catch up to where we are now (which is currently Venice.)

Siena is a hilltop city in Tuscany about one and a half hours or so from Florence. Home to the famed Palio horse race, the world's most ancient bank (that is still in business) and the birthplace of Duccio, Siena is a marvelous city that properly boasts of an incredible sense of pride to accompany it's wonder.


The arched ceilings of the Piccolomini Library in the Duomo were so vibrantly painted (as frescoes). This library was one of my absolute favorite places as it contained psalters from the Middle Ages. I liked that is was a small jewel box in a Cathedral. Scenes 5 and 6 of the story of the life of Siena's cardinal Piccolomini, Pope Pius II are in this photo.

The Sienese are famous rivals of the the Florentines and this hearkens back to the Middle Ages when the communes were constantly seeking dominance over the other. One time, the Sienese were triumphant (and tourists are constantly reminded of this), but we all know who eventually came out on top. It should be said that Siena generally aligned itself with the Ghibelline party (in opposition to the Guelphs.)


Duomo Santa Maria Assunta


Piazza del Campo view from a side street

The city of Siena is divided into 17 smaller communes that sort of remind me of Paris' arrondissements. Characteristically different and marked by their own shield, these communities evoke a different sort of competition among the Sienese. Each of these districts have their own horse which represents them in the Palio horse race, they have their own set of guidelines in which to live and they have their own city counsel that selects the horse to represent them (and select their jockey too). I am a little obsessed with the medieval banners and shields that one would see everywhere in these medieval cities, so I enjoyed reading about how the Sienese are able to develop their own joyful sense of community and pride within the marvelous city they all dwell in. Every district has a tribute animal and colors that are illustrated on the banner. These shields/banners are on the street corners to make one aware of which district they are in.


Palazzo Pubblico in the Piazza del Campo where the Palio di Siena takes place each year.

The Palio horse race occurs every year and the district that wins practically parties until Christmas. Well, everyone parties... but only one district wins the coveted banner to display in their district museum. Two things really strike me with the Palio race. First, there is no monetary or materialistic gain other than the banner the district wins. I think that is wonderful and so genuine as it lends much greater spirit and joy behind the race. Second, the race is devoted to the Virgin Mary. In fact, all of Siena is dedicated to the Virgin and there is a lovely fountain in the Piazza del Campo to pay homage to her. The Piazza del Campo is where the Palio race takes place; it's lovely herringbone bricked walkway makes for a great place to sit and read or sunbathe or to enjoy gelato.


Cloudy tower.

I very much enjoyed Siena as I had never been before and I learned so much about their culture. I didn't take a tour or anything like that, but I was determined to read about it beforehand as I hate being somewhere and not understanding the history (or attempt to understand it at least). The Guelph and Ghilbelline rivalry is most interesting to learn of. Additionally, the people are so incredible and love to talk about their city and their way of life. So, I always like hearing their version and seeing their hearts open as they speak with such gusto about their hometown.


Basilica San Dominco.

I will add pictures of the interior and exterior of the Duomo to the photobucket album. I thought it to be very colorful and my favorite room was a smaller library, the Piccolomini Library, where original medieval psalters were kept. I have loved medieval illustrations and these were so vibrant and they matched the room beautifully.


Medieval psalters


The world's oldest, functioning bank, Monte dei Paschi di Siena. Here, you can see three different types of architecture. In the middle (the bank's main building) there is a medieval style. To the right, there is a Renaissance style (rounded, more elegant windows). To the left is a late Renaissance style (I think.) It's fascinating to see how these cities age and develop. The buildings are like rings on a tree stump; they each tell a different story of maturation and climate.

More from Florence and also pictures of San Gimignano to come.

Hello to Becca, Ouiser, Olive, Raina and Ally- thank you all for the comments and the twitter love.
Em, you are fabulous ficmom and no worries about being fail. You are never fail.

To my non-online friends, thanks for the emails and the calls! I like that you all email me... if some of you commented what you said in your emails I would blush like mad.

Photos from Siena

On a side note: I am hosting a readalong for Cosmo's Retail Therapy on the 22nd. It's going to be a grand affair and I expect all of you to be there and ready for Darcyward hotness. :)

I need to recommend The Cullen Campaign. The author is a sweetheart and well versed in all things political. The E and B banter is outstanding and generally, the story lends a new meaning to bipartisan cooperation.