Thursday, June 3, 2010

Siena




Greetings my lovely friends. I have been complete fail at updating and I am a little behind. I will try to catch up to where we are now (which is currently Venice.)

Siena is a hilltop city in Tuscany about one and a half hours or so from Florence. Home to the famed Palio horse race, the world's most ancient bank (that is still in business) and the birthplace of Duccio, Siena is a marvelous city that properly boasts of an incredible sense of pride to accompany it's wonder.


The arched ceilings of the Piccolomini Library in the Duomo were so vibrantly painted (as frescoes). This library was one of my absolute favorite places as it contained psalters from the Middle Ages. I liked that is was a small jewel box in a Cathedral. Scenes 5 and 6 of the story of the life of Siena's cardinal Piccolomini, Pope Pius II are in this photo.

The Sienese are famous rivals of the the Florentines and this hearkens back to the Middle Ages when the communes were constantly seeking dominance over the other. One time, the Sienese were triumphant (and tourists are constantly reminded of this), but we all know who eventually came out on top. It should be said that Siena generally aligned itself with the Ghibelline party (in opposition to the Guelphs.)


Duomo Santa Maria Assunta


Piazza del Campo view from a side street

The city of Siena is divided into 17 smaller communes that sort of remind me of Paris' arrondissements. Characteristically different and marked by their own shield, these communities evoke a different sort of competition among the Sienese. Each of these districts have their own horse which represents them in the Palio horse race, they have their own set of guidelines in which to live and they have their own city counsel that selects the horse to represent them (and select their jockey too). I am a little obsessed with the medieval banners and shields that one would see everywhere in these medieval cities, so I enjoyed reading about how the Sienese are able to develop their own joyful sense of community and pride within the marvelous city they all dwell in. Every district has a tribute animal and colors that are illustrated on the banner. These shields/banners are on the street corners to make one aware of which district they are in.


Palazzo Pubblico in the Piazza del Campo where the Palio di Siena takes place each year.

The Palio horse race occurs every year and the district that wins practically parties until Christmas. Well, everyone parties... but only one district wins the coveted banner to display in their district museum. Two things really strike me with the Palio race. First, there is no monetary or materialistic gain other than the banner the district wins. I think that is wonderful and so genuine as it lends much greater spirit and joy behind the race. Second, the race is devoted to the Virgin Mary. In fact, all of Siena is dedicated to the Virgin and there is a lovely fountain in the Piazza del Campo to pay homage to her. The Piazza del Campo is where the Palio race takes place; it's lovely herringbone bricked walkway makes for a great place to sit and read or sunbathe or to enjoy gelato.


Cloudy tower.

I very much enjoyed Siena as I had never been before and I learned so much about their culture. I didn't take a tour or anything like that, but I was determined to read about it beforehand as I hate being somewhere and not understanding the history (or attempt to understand it at least). The Guelph and Ghilbelline rivalry is most interesting to learn of. Additionally, the people are so incredible and love to talk about their city and their way of life. So, I always like hearing their version and seeing their hearts open as they speak with such gusto about their hometown.


Basilica San Dominco.

I will add pictures of the interior and exterior of the Duomo to the photobucket album. I thought it to be very colorful and my favorite room was a smaller library, the Piccolomini Library, where original medieval psalters were kept. I have loved medieval illustrations and these were so vibrant and they matched the room beautifully.


Medieval psalters


The world's oldest, functioning bank, Monte dei Paschi di Siena. Here, you can see three different types of architecture. In the middle (the bank's main building) there is a medieval style. To the right, there is a Renaissance style (rounded, more elegant windows). To the left is a late Renaissance style (I think.) It's fascinating to see how these cities age and develop. The buildings are like rings on a tree stump; they each tell a different story of maturation and climate.

More from Florence and also pictures of San Gimignano to come.

Hello to Becca, Ouiser, Olive, Raina and Ally- thank you all for the comments and the twitter love.
Em, you are fabulous ficmom and no worries about being fail. You are never fail.

To my non-online friends, thanks for the emails and the calls! I like that you all email me... if some of you commented what you said in your emails I would blush like mad.

Photos from Siena

On a side note: I am hosting a readalong for Cosmo's Retail Therapy on the 22nd. It's going to be a grand affair and I expect all of you to be there and ready for Darcyward hotness. :)

I need to recommend The Cullen Campaign. The author is a sweetheart and well versed in all things political. The E and B banter is outstanding and generally, the story lends a new meaning to bipartisan cooperation.

3 comments:

  1. Brooke,
    With a library as opulent and vibrant as that, I would never get any studying done. The cathedrals are absolutely worth the trip alone. Loving your tour so far. You are never FAIL.
    Missing you,
    Raina

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  2. Big! I am learning so much from this! keep enjoying your time! I love you! and missing you soo much!

    Love,
    Arielle

    Ps. Hi momma k! I love you and it looks like you and Brooke are having a fabulous time!

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  3. Okay, I really want to party with the Sienese after this Palio horse race. Particularly with the region represented by the turtle...no better yet, the dragon! Haha. The picture of the psalter is beautiful...I would love to look at all the pages!

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