Santa Maria Novella and "My fair San Giovanni" (Florentine Baptistry)

I feel so lucky to have had the time to really savor Florence. I have visited before, but was never blessed with enough time for a holiday as extended as this one will be. In my opinion, Florence is not one of those cities that can be "done"... I think you all know what I mean. Sometimes when one travels in Europe, there is an urgency to take absolutely everything in, but in Italy (especially Firenze) I never feel rushed. It's a city to live in, to walk about become a part of it. It's nice to immerse oneself naturally rather than have a forced experience simply to check off your Fodors guide (I'm not knocking Fodors).


Rower on the Arno

Florence is an incredibly rich city, but this is not only measured by tourist numbers to the Galleria degli Uffizi. It's true, Florence has so much to offer that it is impossible to consume everything (even in a few visits). It's difficult to remember which church came first, which Medici Cosimo is (the First...), or how many Michelangelo pietas there are.



A woodwork shop in Santa Croce


Store front with pretty flowers

Here are a few updates of sites I have visited before and some that I had not. I always enjoy going to the Cathedrals on return trips; they are worth every euro entry fee. The large duomos of Italia draw large crowds, but I also make it a point to experience smaller churches off the beaten path because they are all very, very beautiful.


Street artist work with the chalk medium.

And speaking of Michelangelo (you do that a lot over here): we went to see "David". I had actually never visited the Galleria dell' Accademia before, so it was nice to meet him! I'll be quite honest, I didn't think he would be that big (I'm talking about his presence)... even though I knew he was intended for a buttressed apse of Sta Maria del Fiore. I saw down on the bench behind David and spoke with my private guide who is a sculptor about finding faults in the Carrara marble and other detailed things and this really helped me understand David as a sculptor would. When I was discussing these things (including my little sculpture class I took years ago..hehe), my friend told me that he spent years in Piedmont Park/Botanical Gardens on a huge marble sculpture (for my Atlanta blog friends).


I had to sneak this photo. I was practically at the Accademia entrance.

I also visited Santa Maria Novella and San Giovanni (the Battistrero).


Dome of San Giovanni


In Sta Maria Novella, you will find an absolutely gorgeous crucifix by Giotto. Giotto is one of my absolute favorite artists and I think he is under appreciated because people generally do not like all of the gold leafing and "flat" paintings. Truly, Giotto is responsible for introducing the idea of perspective (though he only semi-accomplished this in his own works)- something Cimabue and Duccio did not. This Cathedral also has a lovely fresco by Massacio "Trinity".


"Gates of Paradise" door to the Battistrero San Giovanni



Giotto's Crucifix



Masaccio's "Trinity" in Santa Maria Novella (more Masaccio frescoes are in the Brancacci Chapel in Oltratrana "Other side" of Florence.

San Lorenzo is a Cathedral in the San Lorenzo area of Florence that is known to be the stomping ground of the Medici family. The church is adjacent to the Cappelle Medici (all of the big shots are buried there) and there are many MIchelangelo sculptures there. Pictures were not allowed I am sorry. Donatello is also buried in the Cathedral next to an incredible 'Annunciation' fresco.

Generally, baptistries are located in front of the main Duomos of Italian cities. Why was it that people were not baptized in the church? It was because is was believed that those who were yet to be baptized could not enter the church as a parishioner. San Giovanni is beautiiful- mosaics and gilded ceilings, inlaid marble that mimics the famously bold colors of the Duomo is found in the inside as well. It's octagonal form conveys the Christian sentiment and hope for resurrection from the dead- the "eighth day". I have always liked this little detail. Ghiberti's doors feature biblical stories and the life of St. John the Baptist, the patron saint of Firenze.


Santa Maria Novella (Henry Wordsworth Longfellow lived in the building to the left)

Thank you all for reading and for your very kind comments. I appreciate your opinion and I am happy you are enjoying this experience with me. Florence is to be shared amongst friends and family... Florentines have been sharing their city with me so I am passing along their wish.


Pasticceria "Gilli" in the Piazza della Repubblica


I have more video but it is not uploading. I will try again. I'm running a few potential posts behind because I was off in Chianti today (I visited an organic farm for lunch and a wine tasting that was phenomenal.) I tried the white wine, Vernazza that is unique to San Gimignano (and mentioned in Dante's Commedia. This is no surprise as Dante was a Guelph political correspondent to San Gimignano.

I could write an entire blog on San Gimignano. I really loved it. I spent the day there with a few people we met yesterday. A couple from Montreal and a couple from Toronto (believe it or not). We are all great friends now and it's wonderful.

For Brigette, here is my Miu Miu handbag (the Pucci bag contains some scarves if you are wondering):


I'm very sleepy so I am sorry if the details are lacking or the sentences are running on and on. I can tell from my posts how exhausted I have been (and I keep forgetting what time it is for you all (sorry Brigette). I have so much to tell all of you (especially from today) so I will try my best to catch up. Blogging is really a lot of fun.

Oh! One more thing: Florence has love artisanal papers and stationary (I am in heaven). You have the luxury brands like Pneidier but just off of the main piazza there are stunning shops. I purchased some journals and things from a workshop that had the heat stamps and printed all their paper with wooden blocks. (She showed me how they do this- it's amazing).

So, for those of you who enjoy writing love letters to anyone dear to you, come to Florence to get some stationary. :)

NovellaeBattistreroPhotos

Much more on a few Tuscan cities and the region of Chianti to come.
We are going to Milan too (an unexpected addition) so I will mention this as well.

My lemon tree is from the Palazzo Vecchio interior courtyard.

All my love,
B